Lakeville’s Mightiest Sandwich Comes Out of Its Tiniest Restaurant Window
The most unassuming little food window in Lakeville is serving up the most attention-grabbing sandwich.
Wingin’ It started off as a food truck, but now has a second location perched in the kitchen atop the Lakeville Eagles Club at 217 County Street. It has a simple menu, featuring items like crispy fried chicken wings, boneless chicken tenders, burgers, and grilled cheeses.
Yet one sandwich stands out among the rest: the Artery Clogger. It’s not just a catchy name, either. This grilled cheese is packed with brisket, pulled pork, bacon, Buffalo tenders and slathered with BBQ sauce.
“We were already doing all of the other sandwiches, so I figured why not just put it all into one?” said Wingin’ It owner Jim Morley.
Although the Artery Clogger is a popular sandwich, it’s not the most popular. That distinction goes to the Supermelt, a grilled cheese stuffed with chicken tender, bacon, a choice of sauce and a side of ranch dressing.
Yet the Artery Clogger is definitely the most memorable.
“I think it’s not the most popular because it takes an appetite to eat it, and it’s a hefty price tag ($16) too,” Morley said.
Adam and I split the Artery Clogger while each also ordering some wings. Adam went for the hottest available, the “XX Hot,” while I just went with “Hot,” which was more than spicy enough for me. Adam has tackled the hottest wings the SouthCoast has to offer, and ranked these up there in terms of spice but said they’re not overwhelming.
Easy for him to say.
As for the sandwich itself, we each needed both hands just to be able to hoist our half of the sandwich up. Between the large Buffalo tenders and the thick slab of brisket, this sandwich towered at a good four inches high or so. Bacon, pulled pork and cheese seemed to be jammed into every bit of space that wasn’t occupied by tender or brisket.
The BBQ sauce, the Buffalo sauce, the melted cheese – it all worked together so well. After my first bite, I let out an “Oh. Oh damn.” Adam, meanwhile, opted for more colorful language I won’t repeat here, but with the same sentiment that this sandwich was something special.
Morley said the menu is changing next week, and a new item is being added: the Heart Attack.
“It’s basically the same thing as the Artery Clogger but it’s on a burger,” he said.
The 43-year-old Morley has been cooking and creating since he first started working at Wendy’s back in high school. He worked his way up through pizza places and a longtime stint at the 99 Restaurant before leaving the kitchen to take a job in food distribution in order to have a more 9-to-5 lifestyle.
His journey also included stints at various other restaurants like Hemenway’s and Raphael’s Bar Risto in Providence, Bittersweet Farm Restaurant & Tavern in Westport, and the Boat House Waterfront Dining in Tiverton.
“I was always bouncing around different ideas for my own restaurant,” he said. “Then during the pandemic, I was trying to do real estate, but that never really quite panned out. I had always kept my out for a food trailer that would be set up the way I’d want it to be set up, and I just happened to find one.”
The Wingin’ It truck is found parked outside of the Star Liquor Market on Main Street in Lakeville, complete with a little stone patio area and cornhole boards. It was already gaining a reputation for great homemade food after just a short time, and the change in seasons opened up the doors for the new location operating out of the Eagles Club.
“We started with the food trailer, but the trailer is not set up well for the winter, and they refinished the kitchen (at the Eagles Club),” Morley said. “I was already a member here, so it happened naturally, organically that I would rent this out from them. Come May 1, I’m going to try to run both locations.”
Morley likes to prepare everything from scratch, and the original food trailer kept him from doing a lot of things he wanted to do, such as all of his different wing sauces. He said now operating out of the Eagles kitchen gives him more flexibility and storage, so he can serve up fresh-cut French fries, fresh breaded tenders and wings, and more. He said he wants to continue serving up innovative comfort food and keep growing his business.
“I feel extremely blessed right now. It’s the love of my life, and I love what I’m doing,” he said.